Don’t forget your toothbrush

21st April 2006

It seems like only yesterday that I was getting off the plane from Borneo, and now I'm heading out to the jungles of central Africa to continue my work with primates - this time mountain gorillas in Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda. Today I spend my time packing the cases and camera packs, and making sure all the paperwork is in order. So I don't miss any of the action I'm taking all three camera bodies with my favourite VR zooms (the 200-400mm, 70-200mm & 24-120mm). This trip, however, the flash units have to stay at home.

Into the mountains … and into a storm

23rd April 2006

An early start as I head to the mountains for the first day's tracking. This is the wet season in Rwanda (not ideal for photography but a good time for finding the gorillas) and I soon know about it. As I step down from the jeep the first spots of rain begin to fall ... and they continue in heavy spurts all day. I track for three hours and by the time I hear the distinct sounds of the great apes, I'm soaked from hat to socks - literally. But it's worth it. Munching on vegetation just a few feet away is an adult female, who notices my appearance but ignores me all the same. Not too distant is the main group: three silverbacks, two blackbacks (adult males under 11 years), and seven females. In the distance a juvenile scuttles between bamboo shoots. It's a magical feeling and I almost forget to take pictures!

Another day, another story

24th April 2006

My boots aren't quite dry from yesterday's drenching but they quickly warm in the intense sunshine that has replaced the storm clouds. I head west and then up, up, up. I reach 10,000 feet to find the largest band of gorillas in the region - 38 individuals, including a three-footed silverback (it lost its fourth foot in a poachers trap) and twin babies - a rarity in gorillas. I find them in a clearing, resting after a feed. I spend my allotted hour in the company of these great apes, marvelling at their strength, power and delicate touch; and laughing at the antics of the many babies and juveniles, as they playfully bash each other on the head before running for cover in a manner I recall from my own childhood with my elder brother.

A note about Rwanda

In 1994 Rwanda lost 10% of its population (over 1 million men, women and children) in a hate-filled spasm of genocide that was largely ignored by the West. Twelve years later, whatever the psychological and physical scars of the survivors, the land itself betrays few overt signs of its grim and recent past. Rwanda is a beautiful country. Green and mountainous, colourful and rich. It is in stark contrast to its better known African neighbours to the south and east. Indeed, there are times when, traversing its well-paved switchback roads, I could almost believe I was Europe or the US. I have travelled extensively in other regions of Africa but the beauty and friendliness of this tiny nation is sure to draw me back.

Gorillas missed

25th April 2006

My time with the gorillas is coming to an end. It sounds a funny thing to say, but I'll miss them. This morning I take the Land Rover and scout the Rwandan countryside for some scenic shots. I take the D2X and the wide-angle lenses (12-24mm & 24-120mm) to capture the beauty of this country; it's wide-open spaces, volcanoes and it's "thousand hills".